Trip Dates: 7th-28th June 2003
Flight: Heathrow to Seattle, 4776miles
x2
Drive: Seattle to Fort Smith, 4300miles
Team Members: Clive Williamson,
Will Forester, Matt Simpson, Dan Peel, Dan Hughes, Roy Dahl,
Andy Laird
Photos:
Slave River
Skook
Digital Photo's WYSIWYG
Video's
Splash! Mounty's
1
Mounty's 2 Mounty's
3
Frenchy Falls Skook |
Fort Smith is the old capital of Canada’s
Northwest Territories, just north of the Alberta border above
the 60th Parallel. Nearby Wood Buffalo National Park a World
Heritage Site and reportedly the 2nd largest Park in the world
is home to the Mighty Slave River described by locals, as
“Canada’s Zambezi”. The Slave River is the main reason why
Fort Smith and other local villages exist in this remote corner
of the Territory. The rapids of the Slave River were the only
interruption for the Dene and Metis people 200 years ago as
they travelled north and south with their goods and families.
In winter at temperatures around -40°C it becomes a place
of sparkling snow, clear skies and the Northern Lights, most
of the river freezes and becomes a highway for traffic to
the south.
Naming the Rapids
The Slave River is often more than a mile wide as it angles
through channels between a myriad of islands to create this
awesome playground. Four named rapids, Cassette, Pelican,
Mountain and Rapids of the Drowned, divide into hundreds of
channels some never paddled. Cassette named after a trading
company’s money cassette was lost on a misguided run through
the rapids. Pelican named after the pelicans that come north
each spring from Mexico to fish and nest on the Islands of
the Slave. Mountain after the portage required up and over
the 150-foot-high trail to the other side of the peninsula
and Drowned after a group of traders signalling to each other
with gunfire ran the rapids because a colleague went off to
shoot his dinner while others scouted the rapids.
The Drive
16 hours north of Edmonton, Fort Smith is at the end of Highway
5, only 60 to 70 paddlers visit the area every year. The local
paddlers are very welcoming and assist in guiding you down
the many channels, suitable for most whitewater paddlers the
Mighty Slave River has been tamed, rapids like Pelican, Mollies
Nipple and Fury can be easily portaged on your way to numerous
play spots; Avalanche, Playground, Outrageous and Rollercoaster.
It is possible, at a price, to fly to Fort Smith or Edmonton
from London but requires you to change plane in Calgary or
Vancouver. British Airways our boat friendly airline take
you to Vancouver or Seattle, car hire and fights are cheaper
in Seattle. So opting for the 1800mile drive through the Rocky
Mountains to Fort Smith we paddled the Frazer and other BC
rivers on the way.
The Rapids
Each of the named rapids, Cassette, Pelican, Mountain and
Drowned can be full days exercise in themselves.
Cassette is the furthest rapid from Fort Smith, taking
the road south into Alberta it quickly changes to a graded
dirt road. Driving to the end of this road you arrive at Fort
Fitzgerald where the river gauge is located and the dock where
the old paddle boats used to end their journey north down
the river before portaging their cargo. Cassette is a 4-7km
paddle and features many surf waves Outrageous, Alarm Clock
and Rollercoaster, spending all day practising new aerial
moves at both would be easy. Keep a little energy for the
2km ferry glide home via The Land of a Thousand Holes. Walking
back up Rollercoaster and kayaking down through The Land of
a Thousand Holes makes the return home different every day.
Remote channels on the far side of the river are as close
as The Slave gets to creek boating, notably Split Rock being
a clear smoking horizon line. The take out is at mile 285
on the dirt road, easy to find from the road not so easy from
the river, marked only by a notable change in the type of
jack pine trees and a small white bottle.
Pelican a formidable rapid is not for the shy, a 2km
paddle upstream gets you from the put in, down the track at
mile 276, to the rapid. A huge ledge where the river funnels
through only 7 or 8 channels. Some channels never paddled,
Pelican itself takes most of the river through the 300 metre
wide channel in the middle of the river. Paddled for the first
time by Shawn Grono and his friends in 1998 with differing
success. A swim here can be a serious undertaking as the whirlpools
and boils make it impossible to make rescue and it’s nearly
a kilometre to the nearest rocks.
Mountain only gets is name from the portage the trades
had todo over the peninsula. The locals spend many hours here
as you can paddle from the take out to the Playground and
specifically Spanky a good hole to practise your moves and
sunbathe on the neighbouring rocks. The put in is a short
walk from the take out so no shuttle is required. Again the
river is several kilometres wide and the channels numerous.
Fury and the Edge have provide trouble for some of the best
kayakers. Molly’s Nipple awaits those with courage and Poly’s
Nipple nearby paddled probably for the first time this year
by our team requires an accurate line. Alternatively Turnpike
and Avalanche are the best routes down to stay out of trouble.
The track to the put in is signposted from the dirt road at
mile 272.
Rapids of the Drowned is good to keep for a day off, mainly
requiring a massive ferry glide across the river after a 2km
paddle up the river if you don’t run a shuttle. The Drowned
rapids are tight channels along the far bank of the river
navigated without much difficulty in our Liquid Logic’s. Locals
often BBQ on “The Rocks” as it is an easy walk from town and
the pelicans provide a further attraction as they pluck fish
from the churning water
Useful links:
River
www.slavekayaklodge.com
Levels
http://scitech.pyr.ec.gc.ca/waterweb/formnav.asp?lang=0
Town
www.town.fort-smith.nt.ca
www.virtualfortsmith.com
www.fortsmithnwt.com
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